Glossary of Jewelry Terms

GLOSSARY OF CUBIC ZIRCONIA JEWELRY TERMS

Alloy - A mixture of two or more metals.  Metals are alloyed by weight.  For example, 100 ounces of sterling silver is 92.5 ounces silver/7.5 ounces copper.

Aluminum - A silver-colored metal, known for its lightness, malleability, and resistance to oxidation.

Art Deco - A style fashionable in the 1920's and 1930's. Art Deco jewelry featured abstract designs and geometric patterns.

Art Nouveau - A style of the 1890s and early 1900s emphasizing free-flowing, curving lines with asymmetrical natural motifs.  For example, intertwining floral patters, butterflies and dragonflies, and delicate female faces were commonly used in Art Nouveau jewelry.

Asterism - The starlike reflection of white lines present in some gemstones.  Asterism is most prevalent in rubies and sapphires.

Bangle Bracelet - A nonflexible type of bracelet that slips easily over the hand.

Baroque Pearl - A large, irregularly shaped pearl.

Base Metal - Any nonprecious metal.  In the jewelry industry, copper, zinc, brass, lead, and antimony are usually referred to as the base metals.

Bezel Setting - A type of setting in which the rim holds the stone, completely surrounding the gem.  Bezels can be molded into any shape to fit the stone, such as straight edges or scalloped.

Biwa Pearl - A variety of cultured pearls produced in fresh water.  Biwa pearls come in a variety of colors and are often bleached to a bright white.  They are usually irregular shape.

Brass - An alloy of copper and zinc.  The proportions are variable.  Most common alloys in jewelry making are between 80 and 90 percent copper and 10 to 20 percent zinc.

Brilliant Cut - A gemstone cut generally used for diamonds.

Bronze - An alloy containing copper and tin and other elements such as phosphorus, aluminum, and silicon.  Several modern copper alloys are called bronzes because they look like bronze even though they do not contain tin.  For example, commercial bronze is 90 percent copper and 10 percent zinc.

Cabochon - A gemstone cut that features a smooth, rounded surface.

Carat - A measure of weight used for gemstones, equal to 200 milligrams or 1/5 gram.

Casting - The process of forming an object by pouring molten metal into a hollow mold.

Channel Setting - A type of setting in which the gemstones are set into a channel or single row, with no metal or very thin strips separating them.

Charm - A small, decorative article worn suspended from a bracelet.  A charm is usually part of a collection of such objects.

Charm Bracelet - A popular type of bracelet from which variety of decorative charms are hung.

Choker - A short necklace that fits closely around the neck, 14 to 16 inches long.

Clarity - A term used to define the clearness of a gemstone or absence of internal flaws.

Coin Silver - 90 percent (90-100) fine silver and 10 percent copper.  The same alloy was used for U.S. silver coins before 1966.  Since 1966, US dimes, quarters, and half dollars are made from two sheets of nickel with a center copper.  They contain no silver.

Copper - A light, inexpensive, malleable metal.  This reddish-brown metal looks like pink gold and has the same properties as brass.

Costume Jewelry - Jewelry made of moderately priced to inexpensive priced materials.  originally, costume jewelry was made for a certain type of costume.

Cuff Bracelet - A nonflexible type bracelet, made in the form of a wide cylindrical band, featuring either an open back or a hinge.  Cuffs slip over the wrist and fit tighter than bangles.

Cultured Pearl - A type of pearl that is created within a mollusk by manually inserting an irritant into the shell.  This becomes the nucleus of the pearl and is surrounded by layers of nacre.

Cut - The shape of a stone when changed from a rough stone to a gem.

Danish Silver - Silverware made in Denmark is 83/1000 fine silver if made for export.

Die Striking - Essentially, the same method used by ancient Greeks to make their coins.  A die-struck object is produced by striking metal on one or between two dies.  The stamping hammer forces the metal, under tremendous pressure, into every crevice of the die cavity.  "Coining" is a term sometimes used to refer to this process.

Doublet - A composite stone made of two layers fused together, appearing as a whole natural stone.

Ear Clip - A type of earring that is secured to the ear lobe by a hinged support.

Ear Hook - A type of earring in which a slender loop of wire slips through the ear lobe.

Ear Stud - A type of earring consisting of a front part that fits through the ear lobe and connects to the back part, called a clutch, behind the lobe.  When worn, only the front part is seen.

Earring - An ear ornament, worn at the ear either by means of a wire or thin hoop passing through a hole pierced in the lobe of the ear, or fastened with a screw or clip.

Electroplating - A process using electrical current to coat objects with a thin layer of metal.

Emerald Cut - A gemstone cut generally used for a diamond or an emerald.  The stone is cut into a square or rectangular shape with step cut sides.

Engraving - The process of cutting a design on a hard surface (metal, stone, or wood) with a sharp instrument.

Facet - Any of the small, polished plane surfaces of a gemstone.

Fancies - Diamonds that are naturally colored and extremely rare.

Filigree - A style of intertwining strands of gold or silver wire.

Fine Gold - 99.9 percent gold or higher; contains no alloy material.  Fine gold is 24k gold.

Fine Silver - Commercially pure silver, 99.9 percent fine or higher, that contains no alloy material.

Flexible - See LINK BRACELET.